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Cast Iron stoves, Wood Burning and Multifuel Stoves Abergele North Wales UK

Useful Information

Cast Iron Stove Installation

When purchasing a Cast Iron stove it is important that is installed in the correct manner for reasons of safety and efficiency.

When purchasing a stove for the first time it is important to take certain factors into consideration such as, the output required from the stove, the opening size, the types of fuel you may wish to burn onyour stove, whether you would like a boiler to heat water or radiators, or both. The kind of material your stove will be made from, will it be a traditional cast iron stove or maybe a modern looking steel stove? Are there any restrictions in your area, such as smoke control? Will your chimney need to be lined? Do you have a chimney?

We can help you with answers to all of these questions, ensuring that when you purchase your stove it will be the right one for you.

Below we have provided some information which we hope will get you on your way, but if you have any questions then please contact us and we will be happy to help.

HETAS and the law

Most installations of solid fuel and wood biomass appliances and systems are subject to the requirements of Building Regulations and when installing you should notify your Local Authority by law. Or HETAS registered installers can self-certificate their work thus avoiding the need for costly and time consuming Building Notice applications to the local Building Control Department.

HETAS Registered Businesses leave the customer with a Compliance Certificate and send a copy to HETAS for onward notification to the Local Authority.

The Certificates issued by HETAS and the notifications to Local Authority are important records demonstrating that work was done legally, by registered competent businesses and individuals and records that the registered business carried out the work in accordance with Building Regulations.

When people sell their houses - the information about work carried out under the Building Regulations in England & Wales is used by Solicitors on their inquiry forms and failure to demonstrate compliant work where applicable, can adversely affect the sale of properties. The information gathered in this way may be used in any future home information pack (HIP) requirement; and Local Authorities are already required by law to hold such information.

We are a HETAS registered company and offer a local survey and installation service.

Please contact us for details on 01745 822344

A full list of Hetas registered fitters can be found at the HETAS website. www.hetas.co.uk

If you intend to install your own appliance it will need to be in accordance with local building regulations To view part J of the current building regulations visit - www.planningportal.gov.uk

How to look after your cast iron stove

 

Look after your cast iron stove and it will look after you, to keep your stove in top condition it is important to give it regular checks most maintenance work can be carried out by you at home.

 

When not in use: If your cast iron stove is not in use for a period of time for example through the summer it is important to leave a vent or a door open to avoid condensation build up inside the stove or chimney.

 

Expand the castings: When first firing a cast iron stove it is advisable to expand the castings as these will be cold, an easy way to do this is to put a small fire into the stove for the first few days. It is also a good idea to follow this practice if your stove is stood cold for a long period of time e.g. summertime.

 

Grate: Check the grate is in good condition, free from any cracks or distortion and that it riddles with ease. If the grate is distorted this can cause the riddling mechanism to jam.

 

Firebricks: If your cast iron stove has firebricks it is important to check they are free from cracks or damage. If a piece of firebrick was to fall out this could cause a stove to crack or distort.

 

Ashpan: Check your ash pan for holes, hot ash falling through could be dangerous when emptying and burn your floor.

 

Fire rope seals: Most cast iron stoves are sealed with fire rope around the glass and door to get a good seal when the stove is shut. Replace frayed or missing fire rope.

 

Glass: Keep glass clean and free from tar, special stove glass cleaner is available to buy and removes deposits with ease.

 

Appearance: Keep your cast iron stove free from rust by rubbing with a wire brush or steel wool to remove and re-spray with a heat resistant paint or grate polish.

 

 

Common problems with chimneys and how to solve them

 

Every chimney is different, even if they are built in the same way they will still behave differently due to other factors such as air and pressure, as such a cure for a problem in one chimney will not always work in another. Here are some common problems with chimneys and ideas on how you might solve them. It is always advisable for you to seek the help of an expert to diagnose and cure chimney problems such as a HETAS registered person. If you are based outside our local area you can find your local HETAS registered company at their website www.hetas.co.uk 

 

Smoking:

  • Have the chimney swept including the flue connecting the stove to the chimney.
  • Check for soot build up on the baffle plate inside the stove
  • Check the joints in the stove; these can be resealed with fire cement
  • Check the rope seals around the doors and glass and replace if missing or frayed.
  • Ensure there is adequate ventilation in the room where the stove is situated.
  • Ensure that your chimney is high enough to give a good draw.
  • Your chimney may need to be lined
  • Check that your chimney pot or cowl are big enough and that you are using the right type for your chimney
  • There may be strong winds, which could cause a pressure difference outside your house causing air to be sucked down the chimney; a chimney fan could help this.
  • Is there enough ventilation for the stove? Current building regs state that for each KW above 5, 550 sq mm of ventilation is required this can be in the form of an airbrick or a ventilator near to the stove.

 

Downdraft:

  • Check that the chimney has a clear passage of air over it, if it does not terminate high enough or becomes covered by trees etc this can cause downdraft.
  • Check the cowl and if necessary fit an anti downdraft cowl.

 

What is downdraft?

Downdraft is recognised by the chimney smoking and is caused by air blowing back down the chimney, this will result in smoke puffing out of the stove. There can be other reasons for smoking chimney, which may be confused with downdraft. Smoking caused by downdraft will not be continuous.  Downdraft is often caused when a chimney is not high enough or when the chimney is shadowed by high buildings or trees which will effect the wind flow; remember that wind can travel from all directions so downdraft may only occur for you on certain days when the wind blows in a particular direction.

 

Sometimes raising the height of the chimney can help or adding a taller chimney pot, another solution could be to add an anti downdraft cowl.

 

Low heat or slow to start:

  • Have the chimney swept including the flue pipe.
  • Check for soot build up on the baffle plate.
  • If you have fitted a damper to the stove check this is operating correctly
  • If the stove goes into a large chimney area which is uninsulated then it may require lining.

 

Runs to fast or wont shut down:

  • Check the stove joints and reseal with fire cement if necessary
  • Check the rope seals and change if frayed or missing
  • Check for any cracks in the stove
  • Fit a flue damper to the stove

 

Tar build up

·         Burn dry seasoned wood, slow burn with coal on a multifuel stove.

  • Use an anti tar powder between sweeps
  • Line chimney


Chimney sweeps

A list of HETAS approved chimney sweeps can be found at their website www.hetas.co.uk

Heat & Room size
Many stoves are chosen on their physical size to match an existing hearth or opening but this has little relationship to the heat requirement of the room. 

Not withstanding variations in heat loss in individual properties.As a general rule you will need 1KW of heat for every cubic metre. This is based on a room temperature of 21 degrees celcius at an ambient of -1 degree celcius. 

For example, an average living room measuring 2.3m (H)x 4.9m (L)x 4.7m (W)divided by 14 would require a stove with a nominal output of 4KW.

To work out the required output for your stove use the following method.

Measuring in metres Height x Length x Width divided by 14 = output kw

This method is a guide only; remember that other factors will affect this such as draughts, doors, staircases, and insulation in the property.

It is also important to remember that when stoves are tested for their output they are generally tested using the hottest fuel possible to burn on them, For example anthracite, this fuel will give more heat than say wood or coal, so if you intend to burn wood only you may need a slightly higher output from your stove.

A stove with a boiler.

Lots of stoves are now available with a boiler option, it may be built in or a clip in boiler, a boiler is used to heat domestic hot water and radiators in the home. With the increase in fuel costs it has become very popular for people to now link their cast iron stove and boiler to their existing central heating system (such as Oil).

It is important that you choose the right size boiler for the job, There are calculations available on line which can provide you with a general idea of the size required but these vary from one dealer to another, Domestic hot water will require different amounts of energy depending on the size of the tank and radiators differ in size from one place to the next. We always recommend having a qualified solid fuel plumber survey your property and advise on your specific requirements. When you have chosen your cast iron stove and boiler ask them to confirm that it will meet your needs before making a purchase.

 

 Smokeless areas

In some areas you are not allowed to burn fuel that emits smoke, this is called a smoke control area. You are permitted to burn smokeless fuel on a multifuel stove in these areas.

List of UK smoke control areas- http://www.uksmokecontrolareas.co.uk/locations.php

Chimney lining.

We offer a full range of high quality flexible chimney liner and components suitable for solid fuel.

Components explained

MA Adaptor: This connects the vitreous flue to the flexible liner.

Top Plate and Clamp This is used to hold the liner up and is fixed between the top of the stack and the underneath of the pot, it is advisable that once the pot has been fixed you also use a cowl to stop the rain and other materials which may fall down the chimney.

Standard Cowl Our standard cowl (chinaman's hat) can be used with a standard round chimney pot, these will help keep the rain from coming down the stack.

Claypot Hanger This is an alternative to the top plate and clamp and standard cowl. The Claypot hanger fits into your existing chimney pot so there is no need to remove this and also holds up your liner from the top, the claypot hanger has a cowl attached to it so there is no need for an additional cowl.

 

 

Reasons to line your chimney:
  • Insulating your chimney liner reduces tar and soot deposits, therefore reducing the chance of a chimney fire
  • Using a good quality liner will create a smooth chimney, with less areas for soot and tar to cling to. Tar that does form can fall back into the stove and be recombusted rather than build up on the rough surface and cracks of the bricks.
  • Insulating the liner will increase the temperature of the flue gasses improving the draw as the warm air will rise.
  • A liner will stop smoke and tar coming through cracks in the bricks and back into your home.
  • If you have a large chimney or a large void in your chimney lining will help, as the flue gasses will cool very quickly in a large chimney space and create condensates which are difficult to remove.
  • Expelling the flue gasses from a pipe which is of consistent diameter will help the flue gasses to travel faster leaving less time for them to cool and leave deposits, it will also help improve draw

 Carbon manoxide

The following information is taken from the solid fuel associations Carbon manoxide safety leaflet.

1. Carbon Monoxide is a highly poisonous gas
Carbon Monoxide fumes have no colour, taste or smell and can be produced by appliances that use gas, wood, oil, coal or smokeless fuel. Carbon Monoxide can also be present in smoke from solid fuel, wood or oil appliances. Carbon Monoxide is potentially fatal,and even low-levels of the poison can cause lasting damage to your health.

2. You must have your solid fuel or wood burning appliance safety-checked annually by a registered competent person for solid fuel and wood appliances i.e. a HETAS Registered Engineer.

You increase the risk of your appliance producing Carbon Monoxide if it is badly installed or poorly maintained. If you have a solid fuel appliance you should empty the ash can daily, clean the flue ways at the back of the boiler weekly and clean the throat plates at the top of the room heater monthly. Have your chimney swept at least once a year if burning smokeless fuel or at least twice a year if using wood or bituminous coal. If you live in rented accommodation with gas appliances your landlord must provide you with proof that a CORGI registered installer has safety-checked the appliances within the last 12 months. A responsible landlord will provide the same for solid fuel and oil.

3. Fit an audible Carbon Monoxide alarm

Carbon Monoxide alarms need to meet European safety standards and must be audible. Fit them in accordance to the manufacturer’s instructions. Note: an alarm is no substitute
for regular maintenance and chimney sweeping. We do not recommend the use of a ‘Black Spot’ detector – these are often inaccurate and will not alert you if you are overcome by
Carbon Monoxide fumes or asleep. If you are concerned about the threat of Carbon Monoxide poisoning whilst on holiday in the UK or abroad, you may wish to take a battery-operated Carbon Monoxide alarm with you.

 

4. Recognising the early symptoms of Carbon Monoxide poisoning will save your life

The symptoms of Carbon Monoxide poisoning are similar to the ‘flu’; nausea, dizziness, tiredness, headaches, stomach and chest pains. If you experience these symptoms but feel better when you are outside or away from the appliance, you could be suffering from Carbon Monoxide poisoning.

5. Know how to spot the signs of Carbon Monoxide around your appliance

Look out for Carbon Monoxide danger signs such as sooting or staining around the appliance and excessive condensation in the room. Carbon Monoxide can also be present in smoke from solid fuel, wood or oil appliances. If you are using a gas appliance that should have a crisp blue flame, such as a pilot light, look out for changes. If it turns to a lazy orange flame, the appliance may not be working correctly.

6. Know what to do and who to call in an emergency

If you suspect a Carbon Monoxide leak, stop using the appliance until it has been checked by a competent engineer. You should open windows to ventilate the area, leave the room to get some fresh air and seek medical advice. If you receive medical attention, be sure to state that you suspect you could be suffering from Carbon Monoxide poisoning to ensure you receive appropriate treatment, and are offered a breath or blood test.

7. It is dangerous to block ventilation

Blocking ventilation or misusing your appliance can lead to Carbon Monoxide poisoning. You should have your chimney swept at least once a year, preferably before each winter.

 

What kind of wood should I burn?

Alder:  low in heat and does not burn for long,

Apple:  Great It bums slowly and steadily when dry, with little flame, but good for heat.

Ash:  The best wood for burning; has both flame and heat, and will bum when green, but burns best when dry.

Beech:  Nearly as good as ash, and only fair when green. If it has a fault, it will shoot embers a long way.

Birch:  good for heat but it burns quickly. A nice smell.

Cedar:  Good when dry. It gives little flame but lots of heat, a lovely scent.

Cherry:  Burns slowly, with good heat. Another wood with the advantage of a nice scent. Chestnut. OK. Will spark. Small flame and heating power.

Douglas Fir:  Poor. Little flame or heat.

Elder:   Average . Very smoky. Quick burner, with not much heat.

Elm:  Commonly sold for fuel. To bum well it needs to be dried for two years. Even then it will smoke.

Hazel:  Good.

Holly:  Good, will burn when green, but best when dried for a season.

Hornbeam:  A rival to beech.

Laburnum:  A poisonous tree, foul smoke, taints food, best never used.

Larch:  Crackles, nice scent, and fairly good for heat.

Laurel:  Gives a brilliant flame.

Lime:  Poor. Burns with dull flame.

Maple:  Good.

Oak:  New oak gives a poor flame and the smoke is foul, but dry old oak is excellent for heat, burning slowly and steadily until whole log collapses into cigar-like ash.

Pear:  Good heat and a good scent.

Pine:  Bums with a wonderful flame, but often spits. The resinous Weymouth pine has a lovely scent and a cheerful blue flame.

Plane:  Burns nicely, but will spark if very dry.

Plum:  Good heat and smell.

Poplar:  Very bad.

Rhododendron:  The thick old stems burn well. 

Robinia (Acacia):  Burns slowly, with good heat, but with foul smoke. 

Spruce:  Burns very quickly and with lots of sparks.

Sycamore:  Burns with a good flame, with medium heat. But do not use green.

Thorn:  Very good. Slow burning, with good heat and little smoke.

Walnut:  Good, and so is the scent..

Willow:  Poor. It must be dry to use, and then it burns slowly, with little flame. Will spark.

Yew:  Among the best. Burns slowly, with strong heat, and the scent is nice.

 

Replacement stove glass:

As well as replacement stove glass for the many models we sell, we are able to provide replacement glass for all makes and models of stove, such as Aarrow, ACR, Aga, Agatar, All blacks, Austroflamm, Balmoral, Barbas, Baxi, Beacon, Boatman, Brosley, Bubble, Burley appliances, Butler, Canon, Crabo, Charnwood, Chase of Milford, Chatelaine, Clarke stoves, Chappee, Clearview, Coalbrookdale, Continental fires, Cosy Gee, Country life, Country Brit, Courtier, Dalesman, Deville, Dovre, Dowling, Dunsley, Effel, Esse, Eva, Everglow, Firebelly, Flavel, Fondis, Foresight, Gazco, Gloworm,. Godin, GWB, Heat stream, Hede, Hergom, Hot spot, HRG Stoves, Hunter, Huntsman, Jetwin, Jig, Jotul, Keddy, Lange,  La grande select, Le select, Logfire, Longlife, Machine mart, Morso, Morley, Natural heating, Nestor martin, Nordica, Nu-Flame, Oakfire, Paragon, Parkray, Pither forrester, Ploughman, Potterton, Quebb, Queen, Quantock, Rayburn, Robinson Willey, S&G Marketing, Sampson, Scan anderson, Scandafire, Scandia, Senora, Spencer, Stanley, Stovax, Super nova, Torgem, Torglow, Town & Country, Thermastove, Thermocet, Trianco, Tripp, Valor, Verine, Vermount, Villager, Wanders, Warmland, Warrior, Waterford, Wenlock, Westminster, Wonderfire, Woodburning stoves Ltd, Woodman, Woodwarm and  Yeoman.

 

Flue Pipe UK ~ Multi Fuel Stove UK ~ Wood Burning Stove UK ~ Cast Iron Stove UK ~ Stoves UK ~ Picnic bench UK ~ Hetas UK

 
 
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Pen y Bryn Fram & Holiday cottages. Tel: 01745 822344, Fax: 01745 826583, Company Reg. No. 6990631, e-mail: northwalesstovesltd@googlemail.com